The time I… crossed the Alps in a VW camper van

The mountains have always been my happy place. Despite much self-reflection and  soul searching, I’m still not sure why, but whenever I plan my holidays, I invariably steer it in the direction of the Alps.

For a mountain junkie like me, the next fix always has to top the last, and after much contemplation, I hatched a cunning plan, a plan that would enable me to get a lot closer to, and spend more time on, the epic roads I dream about.

Over 10 days in June, I was going to trek across the Alps in a camper van, with my bike safely stowed inside. It wouldn’t be any old camper van though. It would be a converted VW Crafter from a small company near Bristol called CJL Leisure Vehicles.

What the van lacked in buff ponies (190 to be exact) and power-to-weight, it more than made up for in versatility, comfort and luxury. It was fully decked out, with a double bed, shower, induction hob, microwave, bike garage, solar and diesel power, alpine sound system and mobile internet.

The big adventure begins

I took the usual ferry-autobahn combo, with the van making sleeping in laybys far more enjoyable, and then the real adventure began. After years of exploring the Alps by car and bike, I still find new roads and gems every time I go, but have developed a deep knowledge of some of the best bits, which often aren’t the most popular. My route would combine both.

Reaching Austria, my route took me past Innsbruck and through the Sölden valley, famous for its ski resorts, which in July are much less busy. I made my camp for the first night on the side of the valley on a random ski access road overlooking Sölden.

The next morning, I headed up the valley, which snakes its way up past Obergurgl to the summit of the Passo Del Rombo – a stunning road which I highly recommend. The summit straddles the Austro-Italian border and – fun fact! – boasts the highest museum in Europe, which features an impressive collection of old motorbikes. Built in 1955, it’s hugely impressive, with incredible views everywhere you look.

Tight spots

Descending the Rombo, my real goal was the Stelvio, with its laced tarmac that’s been attracting two- and four-wheeled pilgrims for as long as it’s existed and remains in the eyes of many, the greatest road in the world.

Now, heading up the Stelvio in an LWB Crafter does require some three-point turns
on the tighter hairpins. I wasn’t bothered, but I can’t say the same for the procession of Porsche drivers stuck behind me, who had mis-timed their ascent. That said, a Crafter is much smaller than some of the huge RVs many Europeans drive, so can access the smaller mountain roads more easily.

The beauty of a van is that it allows you to drive up an epic road such as the Rombo or Stelvio. Find a spot with a sublime view near the summit and relax in one of the most spectacular places on Earth. Who needs Netflix when you are sitting at 2,700m watching the mountain unfold before you?

Epic roads tend to get rather busy, something that can often make them anticlimactic. However, if you hang around and allow the hordes of car clubs to dissipate then you get one of the most epic places on earth to yourself. And the van allows you to be warm and comfortable, and enjoy a brew while you’re at it.

Top tax tip

Sunrise on the Stelvio is something that will stay with me forever. I’d set my alarm especially, and as it unfolded, striations of light were cutting through the upper peaks and clouds. I was pinching myself as I realised that people would pay a fortune to stay in a hotel with this view.

My van had another trick up its sleeve though, with an in-built bike garage that allowed me to enjoy a leisurely breakfast and ride down and back up the mountain, all before Porsche Club had finished their frühstück and oversteered their way to the summit. A van may not give you the thrill of a light, nimble rear-wheel-drive sports car with a characterful engine, but what it lacks in drive, it more than makes up for in destination.

Leaving the Stelvio behind, my route traversed the Italian Alps, taking in the towns of Bormio and Livigno. Top tip: Livigno is a tax haven and therefore a fantastic place to fill up before you head into Switzerland.

Driving along the Forcola, I passed yet another border crossing and camped atop the Bernina and Auberalp passes in Switzerland. I’d got into a routine of cycling around some amazing roads, relaxing in the van in a beautiful location then heading to the next one, basing my choice upon my knowledge of incredible roads and favourable weather forecasts. The van gives you that freedom.

The hills are alive

Another overlooked pass is the Oberalp, a gem best described as ‘peak Switzerland’. It’s quieter than some of the more well-known passes, but is a Family Fortunes top-answers list of everything Swiss. I’m talking cowbells, epic mountains, lakes, meadows, a ridiculously engineered but toy-like railway and a network of hidden bunkers. All that was missing was Julie Andrews munching on a Toblerone.

Before heading back to the UK, I decided to cram in one final bucket-list climb, a mountain road that’s been attracting drivers ever since it featured in Goldfinger – the Furka Pass. The beauty of the Furka is its close proximity to the Gotthard, Grimsel, Nufenen and many more stunning passes. There is an incredible amount of beauty crammed into that corner of the world. A hailstorm engulfed me on my final evening on the Furka, before giving way to a perfect rainbow above the van.

The next morning I began my drive back to Calais, satisfied with my mountainous fix and content knowing that I would be filling the van with red wine on the way back.

If you’ve had a journey that changed your life or made a lasting impression, email james.scoltock@ thinkpublishing.co.uk to feature in our next edition

This is an edited extract from IMI's new MotorPro magazine, received free as part of IMI membership.